Monday, January 25, 2016

Vintage Meringue Pies

Recently, I was in my local independent bookstore (Blue Willow Books in west Houston) and I spotted a book dedicated to vintage pies. 


http://www.amazon.com/Easy-as-Pie-Vintage-cookbooks/dp/1595833765

Meringue topping is popular in Texas, but usually on coconut, chocolate, lemon, or banana cream fillings. Here are three of the odder meringue pies I've seen. The Jelly Pie is probably a product of the rationing during WWII.

Mint Ice Cream Meringue Pie

Mint Meringue Ice Cream Pie
 This pie calls for a crumb crust filled with 1 quart of chocolate chip mint ice cream. Freeze the ice cream again for an hour. Then topped the ice cream with a meringue made from 3 egg whites whipped until stiff and then incorporated with 1/2 cup of sugar. Bake at 500F for 2-3 minutes.

Cranberry Meringue Pie

Cranberry Meringue Pie
Cook 1 3/4 cups granulated sugar with 1/4 cup water until it forms a syrup. Add cranberries and cook until the stop popping. Mix 2 Tbsp flour,  1/4 tsp salt, with 4 egg yolks until smooth. Add 3 Tbsp of cooked cranberry filling. Then transfer the thickener to the cranberry filling and cook 3 minutes. Stir in 2 Tbsp butter and 1 tsp vanilla extract and let filling cool. Beat the 4 egg whites until stiff and add 4 Tbsp powdered sugar. Fill crumb crust with cranberry filling and top with meringue. Bake at 450F until the meringue is set and lightly browned.

Jelly Meringue Pie

Jelly Pie
Cream 1/2 butter. Add 1/2 granulated sugar and cream together. Add 3 Tbsp flour and 1 tsp salt and beat until light and fluffy. Beat 3 egg yolks and add to the mixure. Slowly add juice of 1/2 lemon and
3/4 cup of red currant jelly. Make a single pastry crust and fill with jelly filling. Bake 450F for 10, then decrease to 350F and bake an additional 20 minutes. Beat 3 egg whites with 6 Tbsp powdered sugar and top the pie with the merigue. Bake for an additional 15 minutes at 350F.

Pie Crimps

Martha Stewart Pie Crimps

I have to admit that I've been stuck on the  classic pie crimp (14 below), but there are a lot of creative ways to give structure and drama to your pie crust. Libbie Summers has 20 pie crimps in 2 minutes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9F7ZDnN2bU&feature=youtu.be and here are some static versions below of those I could find online images for.

1. Stars and stripes
1. Stars - Great for July 4th and anytime in the Lone Star state (center 2nd row above) or for President's Day (center 1st row above)

2. Sailor's rope
2. Sailor's rope


3. Pearl
 3. Pearl (or pie weights)
4. Braided
4. Braided
5. Measuring spoons


5. Measuring spoons


6. Cross-Cross
6. Criss-Cross

7. Flower petal
8. Forked

8. Forked

9. Thumbs Up
10. Caesar's Crown
10. Caesar's Crown
11. Corkscrew
11. Corkscrew

12. Einstein
13. Circle of Hearts

13. Circle of Hearts
14. Classic
14. Classic
15. Checkerboard

15. Checkerboard

16. Tongs
16. Tongs
17. Rainbow
17. Rainbow
18. Scallop

18. Scallop
19. Falling Leaves

19. Falling leaves
20. Lattice

20. Lattice

Wednesday, November 25, 2015

The Basics of Baking a Pumpkin Pie

Making a homemade pumpkin pie from scratch is easy to do. I like to try to avoid using lard and dairy products when possible, but feel free to use what you prefer.

Ingredients

Filling
1 pie pumpkin, peeled and chunked
1 cup of condensed milk (coconut, cashew, or soy milk for dairy-free)
1 cup packed brown sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp Ceylon cinnamon (Penzey's)
1 tsp nutneg (Penzey's)
1 tsp baking spice (Penzey's)
2 eggs

Crust (for single crust)
1 cup all-purpose flour (King Arthur)
1/3 cup leaf lard or shortening (Spectrum Organic)
1 Tbsp butter (Kerrygold)
pinch of salt
3 Tbsp ice water

Filling

First buy a pie pumpkin, preferably organic. All pumpkins are edible - even the blue and white decorative ones - can be used to bake a pie, but the pie pumpkins are sweeter. There are some French varieties of pie pumpkins that have some more complex flavors. I prefer to steam roast the pumpkin rather than boiling it to soften the flesh because this concentrates the flavor and produces some caramelization rather than the blander watery product that comes from the alternative.
Both decorative pumpkins (left) and pie pumpkins (right) are edible

Peel the pumpkin using a Y-peeler (they are sturdier and better for peeling any winter squash), making sure to remove all of the tough skin. Peeling first makes it easier to deal with now rather than having to remove hot peels off the roasted pumpkin. Seed the pumpkin - you can roast them along with the pumpkin drizzled in olive oil and your choice of spices. Chop the pumpkin into even-sized chunks (to speed cooking time), place in a glass pan or pie plate, and then cover with aluminum foil. Bake at 350F for 1.5 hrs until soft. Let the pumpkin chunks cool to room temperature, and mash with a fork. 


roasted pumpkin chunks (and salsa verde)
toasted pumpkin seeds

Puree the pumpkin with 1 cup of cashew milk, coconut milk, or condensed milk, 1 tsp of ground cinnamon, 1 tsp pie spice, 1 tsp ground nutmeg, and 1 cup of packed brown sugar, and blend the pumpkin mixture until smooth. Taste and adjust the sweetness. Scramble two eggs and blend again. The filling texture can be varied to be more firm and custard-like by adding less milk but an additional egg. I like lots of pie spice flavor, so omit the pie spice and use Mexican cinnamon if you like a less strong, less anise flavor.


Preparation of the crust

Making a good crust is about three things: 1) not overworking the dough after it's wet where gluten can form, 2) coating the flour in fat to reduce gluten formation, and 3) using the right balance of shortening to create shatteringly crisp crust and butter to provide browning and flavor. Personally, I prefer a mostly shortening crust because I like my crust to be flaky. I only use all butter crusts when I'm doing something like a pecan pie. I like to use King Arthur Flour because it's a great product and it's made by a Vermont company. The flour is grown up North, so it will be slightly harder (more gluten) than any grown in the South (why White Lily grown down south is conversely the right flour for biscuits). All bakers I've consulted use Kerrygold butter from Ireland. The dairy cows are 100% grass-fed, so the butter has a great flavor and healthier fatty acid profile than from grain-fed dairy cattle.
crust ingredients

Combine 1 cup of flour, a pinch of salt, 1/3 cup of shortening, and butter using the pastry blender until they are fine crumbs as shown below.

Add 3 Tbsp of ice cold water and combine by chopping through the mixture with the pastry blender until all the dough pulls up into the blender in folds.

To facilitate turning the pie crust onto the pie plate I typically roll on a piece of flour-dusted plastic wrap. Here I used a piece of parchment paper instead, which works too.

Press the dough loosely into a flattened disk. Roll the dough using a flour-dusted rolling pin until it is two inches larger than the glass pie plate. I like to use a French rolling pin that tapers toward the edges to do the rolling. When rolling, push the pin towards the edges with the palms of your hands rather than rolling back and forth where the dough tends to stick to the pin. Dust the top of the dough periodically to keep it from sticking to the pin.
prepping to roll (Made In Italy pumpkin spoon rest from Marshalls HomeGoods)

The dough can be rolled onto the pin with the attached parchment paper leaving one end free. Turn the pin over and unroll the dough across the top of the glass pie plate (darker metal pans are more likely to burn). Then remove the parchment paper by peeling the paper back at a sharp angle.


Gently push the dough to the bottom of the pan. Try not to create cracks in the center of the crust. Typically I fold the edge of the crust before adding the filling to avoid getting liquid on the crust where it can burn, but the technique is reversed here. The free edges should be rolled up to the top edge of the pie plate. Then, use an alternating pinch technique to create a raised crust edge. This technique isn't just pretty. It creates extra height for the filling to expand into, an opportunity to have a browning Maillard reaction that adds flavor, and the folding add additional strength and greater surface area to create more crispness.
Filling added prior to crust edge prep
Alternating pinch technique
Ready to go into the oven
The finished pie with slight browing of the crust
 Note that the dairy-free version of pumpkin pie is darker than a pie prepared with condensed milk.

Sprouts sells this Cool Whip alternative that's trans fat-free and dairy-free

Monday, November 9, 2015

Best Austin Pies 2015 (Eater)

Upper Crust 4508 Burnet Rd Austin, TX

How did I miss all of these pie bakeries in my many past trips to Austin? Has there been an explosion of new pie bakeries with the comfort food trends during the Great Recession? I've got my work cut out for me to try all of these:

Royers Pie Haven, Sugar Mama's Bakeshop, Bribery Bakery, Eastside Cafe, Elaine's, Mother's Cafe and Garden, Cake & Spoon at Franklin Barbecue, Odd Duck, Lucy's Fried Chicken, Dai Due Butcher Shop, Tiny Pies, Micklethwait Craft Meats, Olamaie, Blackbird Bakery, Pie Plante, Quack's 43rd St Bakery, Upper Crust, Peché, Hoover's Cooking, and Lambert's Downtown BBQ

http://austin.eater.com/maps/best-austin-pies-desserts-bakeries

Wednesday, October 28, 2015

Texas Highways 2015 Top 5 Texas Pies


Texas Highways published their top five places for pie in Texas in the Nov 2015 issue (along with their pics for CFS, BBQ, burgers, Tex-Mex, seafood, and kolaches. They named Blue Bonnet Cafe (Marble Falls), Koffee Kup (Hico), Coffee Shop Cafe (McGregor), Texan Cafe and Pie Shop (Hutto), and Oxbow Bakery (Palestine, reviewed here a few months ago). #1, #2, and #4 overlapped with Texas Monthly's top 10 (also posted here). The pie news continues to raise my interest in visiting Marble Falls and the Hill Country.
http://www.texashighways.com/food-drink/item/8008-comfort-food-pies

Friday, September 11, 2015

Green Borscht

Since April I've celebrating celebrating all the independence days of as many countries as I can discover by finding a restaurant of its type in Houston or cooking something myself. August 24 was Ukrainian Independence Day. Since Ukraine separated from the USSR in the 1980s, the capitol is now Kiev and Ukraine's signature dishes are chicken Kiev, borscht (both the red beet and green sorrel varieties), holutubski, holodec, pierogis, and salo.

Ukrainian painted blown eggs or pysanky for Greek Orthodox Easter

decorative breads made for Easter in Ukraine

holodec or pork aspic is popular

Ukrainian borscht is not limited to beets alone but also has added eggs, potatoes, beans, etc.

holubtsi or stuffed cabbage

salo, a type of fatback, is a food of cultural identity for Ukrainians

So I decided to check out the Russian General Store in the Meyerland neighborhood of Houston where many Russian and Eastern European Jews live to look for Ukrainian food. I love that they label all the foods with their country of origin and I found lots of picked and fried vegetables, prepared borscht, hearty dark rye and pumpernickel breads, sausages and preserved meats, gingerbread cookies, and unusual drinks (sea buckthorn fruit juice, kvass [a soft drink made from bread like beer], and koumiss [fermented mare's milk]). I picked up some canned prepared sorrel to make green borscht myself, since that type of borscht is not eaten in other parts of the former Soviet Union.

The haul from the Russian General Store

Some cat-themed nesting dolls sold in the store
fresh sorrel look similar to beets or Swiss chard
don't be confused with sorrel flowers used to make a tart drink in the Caribbean and Mexico similar to hamaica which is in also in the hibiscus family 


green or sorrel borscht

Green Borscht

Ingredients
2 cups water and 2 bouillon cubes
1 carrot, sliced
1 leek or onion
1 bunch of sorrel leaves or one can of sorrel
¼ cup white vermouth
3 waxy potatoes (such as Yukon Gold), peeled and boiled
3 hard-boiled eggs, diced
Salt and pepper to taste


Bring the water to a boil and add bouillon cubes, carrots, leeks, sorrel, lemon juice, vermouth, and salt and pepper. Cook soup slowly for 30 minutes. Add sliced cooked potatoes and garnish with chopped hard-boiled eggs. Alternatively thin egg noodles and even cooked beans may be added to change the flavor of the soup. The soup is very lemony so you may wish to add 1-2 Tbsp of olive oil or Kerrygold butter at the end to add some fattiness to balance the taste.